Meet Ditmar. He is a river surfer. Has been for many years. He definitely looks the part of typical surfer that can be found in Southern California. He has the skills to back it up. Unlike many of his fellow surfers who would surf until they fall, he would surf long enough to were he'd just move to the edge of the wave and have a seat on the ledge. He tells me that the wave is usually clean, as opposed to the white water at the top of the wave. It is in due part of the extra rain we've been getting lately. As you can see from the scars on his board, things lurk in the water. Actually they are some kind of concrete columns that disrupt the river flow. The locals know how to avoid them. However, there have been many accidents on them.
I'd love to surf this spot one day. I used to surf back in SoCal. It's been too though. And, the river is too dangerous. Besides, I don't think it'll be the same experience. Half of surfing for me was the paddling and sitting waiting for a wave. Sitting on the ocean was oooh sooo serene.
Another great photo :) This one is my favorite so far :)
ReplyDeletethanks man. i haven't been out shooting lately, but hopefully tomorrow I get to meet some more people.
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